Wheel lock митсубиси делика

Wheel lock митсубиси делика

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Подскажите pajero 90 года перестала загораться лампочка WHEEL LOCK, как я понял на раздатке стоит датчик холла, но от него лампочка гореть не может, должна быть схема которая читает шим с датчика и соответственно зажигает лампочку. Подскажите где стоит эта схема не могу найти, может у кого есть электросхема в инете не нашёл. заранее спасибо

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Лампочка гореть перестала, но передок работает исправно?
Лампочка не перегорела?

это так, пара уточняющих вопросов, чтобы не было лишнего флуда

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лампочка не перегорела, передок если шлифанул на скользком включаешь выезжает сразу.

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Авто: MMC Delica P25,35W 4d56t at, pt

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Спасибо Mggkp коробочку нашол На поджеро стоит за бардачком с левой стоны. провода все проверил всё норм. Остаётся либо датчик либо это коробочка более гришу на датчик. Поездка по магазинам в поисках нового некчему не приела, говорят невозим такого.

Укого есть запасной датчик хола на раздатку( Pajero квадратный 90 год) поделитесь если можите..

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L300 Wheel lock light stays on

toshi99

New Member

hi members its my first post in the forum.
i have a Delica camper JB470 vantech manual which is a L300 delica truck platform. The wheel lock doesnot come off in 2wd so im trying to figure out the issue.
i tried reversing in 2wd to get the freewheel diff for the front drive shaft to unlock but wheel light is still on and no sound of disengaging differential.

from some initial search on the forum, i read that i need to check the vacuum pipes and solenoid which retracts and engages the 4wd system.
also could it just be a bad 4wd wheel lock sensor .

i checked parts diagram on megazip parts to get an idea of the sensors and wiring location

Front axle freewheel clutch for 1995 — 1999 Mitsubishi DELICA TRUCK P25T | Japan sales region, , 7918744-624469

Front axle freewheel clutch for 1995 — 1999 Mitsubishi DELICA TRUCK P25T | Japan sales region, , 7918745-624469

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• 

Growlerbearnz

Administrator

The L300 Truck is an odd beast. Regular L300 4WDs use hub locks, but the truck uses a vacuum system on the front axle like an L400.

Try searching the L400 Spacegear forums, their advice might be more relevant.

In general though, you want to check that there’s vacuum at the solenoid and that it moves when 4WD is engaged. If the solenoid is jammed, or the vacuum line to the solenoid has split, it won’t move.

Moderator

thelazygreenfox

Active Member

Find part number 32084 in the Vacuum.png diagram. It’s a tiny one way flow valve that sticks closed limiting or preventing vacuum in the hoses. It may be inside one of the hoses closeby. Mark one end and the hose location when removing the hoses.
Now blow/suck to test flow one direction only, wash out with soap and water, dry, reassemble and test for lights.

Growly and SK are both correct and sometmes this flow valve is the culprit. After this power the 2 solenoids (32082), listening for open/close clicks and do a resistance test as well across the connections (redundant but it’s a double check). Deli diesels use a vacuum pump and my gasser uses manifold pressure to power the vacuum system, after that it’s all the same type of equipment.

At the very least you shouldn’t need to crawl underneath to do these checks. L400s and many other 4x4s seem to be plagued by vacuum problems.

Incidentally the brake booster vacuum system also uses a pesky flow valve and should be cleaned periodically. it’s inside a hose close to the booster. If cleaned your brakes will be amazingly much easier to push.

The flow valve ensures you have vacuum for brakes and 4×4 control after your engine is shut off. There’s magnitudes of discussion on the 4×4 flashing light problem on the UK site. I haven’t solved my flash prob yet but solved my brakes problem. Tomorrow I’m working on my 4×4 flash light prob.

toshi99

New Member

The L300 Truck is an odd beast. Regular L300 4WDs use hub locks, but the truck uses a vacuum system on the front axle like an L400.

Try searching the L400 Spacegear forums, their advice might be more relevant.

In general though, you want to check that there’s vacuum at the solenoid and that it moves when 4WD is engaged. If the solenoid is jammed, or the vacuum line to the solenoid has split, it won’t move.

toshi99

New Member

toshi99

New Member

Find part number 32084 in the Vacuum.png diagram. It’s a tiny one way flow valve that sticks closed limiting or preventing vacuum in the hoses. It may be inside one of the hoses closeby. Mark one end and the hose location when removing the hoses.
Now blow/suck to test flow one direction only, wash out with soap and water, dry, reassemble and test for lights.

Growly and SK are both correct and sometmes this flow valve is the culprit. After this power the 2 solenoids (32082), listening for open/close clicks and do a resistance test as well across the connections (redundant but it’s a double check). Deli diesels use a vacuum pump and my gasser uses manifold pressure to power the vacuum system, after that it’s all the same type of equipment.

At the very least you shouldn’t need to crawl underneath to do these checks. L400s and many other 4x4s seem to be plagued by vacuum problems.

Incidentally the brake booster vacuum system also uses a pesky flow valve and should be cleaned periodically. it’s inside a hose close to the booster. If cleaned your brakes will be amazingly much easier to push.

The flow valve ensures you have vacuum for brakes and 4×4 control after your engine is shut off. There’s magnitudes of discussion on the 4×4 flashing light problem on the UK site. I haven’t solved my flash prob yet but solved my brakes problem. Tomorrow I’m working on my 4×4 flash light prob.

thelazygreenfox

Active Member

Hi Toshi
IMHO pulsating felt through the brake pedal is caused by warped front rotor(s). A laser temp guage gives the easiest test cuz the rotor temp varies considerably from one side or back to front.

Don’t touch the rotors cuz they are burning hot but if you run down a hill you may feel the heat difference from wheel to wheel .

Or view the pad thickness remaining on each wheel. If one wheel has a side that has considerably less brake than the other or if one wheel has both sides with less than other wheels you have a warped back or front rotor problem.

Its sounding like an entire brake job may be needed. Sorry but the caliper pistons stick resulting in uneven wear and warped rotors. I’ve written many delica brakes posts on Delica.ca. Most older vehicles have similar problems.

Merry Christmas to you too
Wayne

toshi99

New Member

Hi Toshi
IMHO pulsating felt through the brake pedal is caused by warped front rotor(s). A laser temp guage gives the easiest test cuz the rotor temp varies considerably from one side or back to front.

Don’t touch the rotors cuz they are burning hot but if you run down a hill you may feel the heat difference from wheel to wheel .

Or view the pad thickness remaining on each wheel. If one wheel has a side that has considerably less brake than the other or if one wheel has both sides with less than other wheels you have a warped back or front rotor problem.

Its sounding like an entire brake job may be needed. Sorry but the caliper pistons stick resulting in uneven wear and warped rotors. I’ve written many delica brakes posts on Delica.ca. Most older vehicles have similar problems.

Merry Christmas to you too
Wayne

thelazygreenfox

Active Member

toshi99

New Member

BaotheVan

New Member

Find part number 32084 in the Vacuum.png diagram. It’s a tiny one way flow valve that sticks closed limiting or preventing vacuum in the hoses. It may be inside one of the hoses closeby. Mark one end and the hose location when removing the hoses.
Now blow/suck to test flow one direction only, wash out with soap and water, dry, reassemble and test for lights.

Growly and SK are both correct and sometmes this flow valve is the culprit. After this power the 2 solenoids (32082), listening for open/close clicks and do a resistance test as well across the connections (redundant but it’s a double check). Deli diesels use a vacuum pump and my gasser uses manifold pressure to power the vacuum system, after that it’s all the same type of equipment.

At the very least you shouldn’t need to crawl underneath to do these checks. L400s and many other 4x4s seem to be plagued by vacuum problems.

Incidentally the brake booster vacuum system also uses a pesky flow valve and should be cleaned periodically. it’s inside a hose close to the booster. If cleaned your brakes will be amazingly much easier to push.

The flow valve ensures you have vacuum for brakes and 4×4 control after your engine is shut off. There’s magnitudes of discussion on the 4×4 flashing light problem on the UK site. I haven’t solved my flash prob yet but solved my brakes problem. Tomorrow I’m working on my 4×4 flash light prob.

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